Basic question...

[modelnut]

I am having a hard time finding a good light gray primer for my figure kits. All I can find locally is Krylon and it is dark gray. That's fine for most things but I have a feeling it isn't great for girl kits.

Any suggestions?

I prefer to work with acrylics. No enamels or oils.

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I just stripped a kit, Kiko by Mike James, and opened lots of pinholes in the once smooth surface. What is best for filling them? Isn't there something that will just smooth them over?

-Leelan

[Phantom Major]

modelnut,

for the first question i use different paints for different jobs, for small figures i'll use Tamiya's light aircraft grey acrylic which i spray on using my air brush for larger kits 120mm or bigger i'll use white or grey automotive car paint primer.

I haven't really run into a kit that has had a lot of pin hoes in it but i have heard of people using a think coating of super glue , not the thick stuff but the more fluid variety, hope this helps.

Phantom Major

[soundchaser]

Halfords supply a good spray primer in light grey, but for an alternative,I've heard good reports about Citadel Miniatures white primer spray,yhough I've not used it myself.
For small scale figures, Humbrol do a light grey primer that can be brushed on ,but any of their light grey enamels ( I'm not keen on Humbrol 's white asa a U.C ) can do. As an experiment, why not try different coloured undercoats to give
tones to the top coat,i.e. a blue U.C. under a blue top to add extra depth.
Soundchaser.

[Model Citizen]

Yep, I use Halfords Primers, Black, White and that rusty brown colour (buy 2 get 1 free!). They work fine. A general rule of thumb is for bright colours use a bright primer and guess what for darker?
By the way, where did you get Kiko, and how much?

[modelnut]

I got Kiko from Mike himself. The kits are still available. www.jamesart.com/index.html

Bought both versions - with swimsuit and without. She is $55 plus shipping of $15.
Kiko is 1/8th scale and cute as button! ;D
www.jamesart.com/kiko.html

-Leelan

[JJCap1]

I used the Krylon primer on my Kiko with no problem. I typically work from dark to light so it fits my style. As far as pin holes! That kit had more pinholes than every other kit I've done combined. The surface was covered. Some I filled with the primer. I sprayed, sanded, sprayed, sanded. I also use modeling paste to fill. Rub it in and wipe it off.

Jim

[Model Citizen]

Thanks Leelan, for some reason I thought it was a lot more expensive than that.
I'll get in touch with Mike and see how he ships to the UK.

[Model Citizen]

Well....I dont really know what to say now.
I just had a reply from Mike James....it was one of the most scathing e-mails I've ever had!
He basically accused me of having recasts and said I should go to them for a Kiko!
I kid you not.
Here's the e-mail:

Dear Chris,

Long, long ago we stopped selling our girl kits to modelerrs in the UK
when we found they were more often than not, used for recasting.

Why recast selling and buying is so pervasive in the UK I can't fathom.
Maybe it has something to do with anarchy among the young modeling community.
Or perhaps it is a flaw in the national character at large. But, no other
country has
this reputation. And from recent reports, little has changed.

Case in point.

Checking our records, it appears you did not buy your Agent Venus from us
(We are well-advertised as the ONLY legal place in the world to get our kits.)
Instead, knowingly or not, (my money's on knowingly) you bought a recast
Agent Venus.

Unless you can refute this, my answer to you is my usual to my UK "customers"
"Go see if the piece of dirt recast seller that sold you your Agent Venus kit
has a Kiko."
Because that's all you're left with in my book...a buyer of recasts is NOT
a legitimate modeler in my book.

Unless you can explain how you got your Venus, don't bother writing back.
I won't read it.

MJ/AD


I have sent a reply explaining about the swap and sell forum at The Clubhouse, but I got to say I'm absolutely gobsmacked at such a response

[JJCap1]

I received my Kiko as a prize at Chiller Theatre. It came in a box with certificate of authenticity and the box was signed by Mike James. Now, I enjoy his sculpts and get a real kick from his style. I'm very pleased with the finished build-up. However, it had a mass of pinholes and took quite a bit of work getting it ready to paint.

Jim

[Phantom Major]

WOW !

Model Citizen, that's a seriously heavy handed way to deal with customers, i'm surprised he has any left if that's his sales pitch, what must it be like in the complaints department!

I caught some of the continuing emails you have had with this guy but i was running late for work so i'm only now catching up, i'm gonna read what the rest of the emails said that you posted. For a kit or kits that are covered in pin holes and which are so highly priced i wouldn't bother with them, not if you are paying $200 + postage and packing on top of that and that doesn't even count import duties either.

anyway, i'll go read the other post of yours and add too that.

[drhall]

My only addition is to pinholes, Gunze Sangyo Mr. Surfacer 500 or 1000. Paint it on, sand it off. Heavier that normal primer and fills better and quicker.

;D Dave Hall

[visionmodels]

Pin Holes best dealt with pin hole putty or knifing putty available at all good automotive body repair shops.
the best type to use is red shows up well on grey dries real quick don't use to much and best applied with something like a #15 swan morten scalpel blade. blades and handles available at art shops. the putty Filler is lacquer based so only use with lacquer primers.
This is also great to build up nicks, chips, scratches or hollow areas in the kits. I use it to the extent of building up facial features and other body changes but it needs a bit of time to dry if you use it like that. John